Nottingham’s Great Victoria Station

by Bill Carson 

Nottingham Victoria Station opened on the 24th May 1900- over a year after the start of main line services from London to Sheffield were passing through it.

The construction was on a grand scale- around 700,000 cubic yards of sandstone rock was excavated from its cavernous site. Some 1300 houses and 24 public houses previously on the site had to be demolished. The site was approximately 13 acres big and 650 yards long from north to south. It had an average width of 110 yards with a tunnel at each end of it for access.

Construction works for the then new Victoria Station, circa 1899/ early 1900? Photo Credit: The Paul Nix Collection.

Both the Great Central and Great Northern railways shared the station (they split into two lines at Weekday Cross junction) and this, after much argument, was why it was called Nottingham ‘Victoria’ rather than ‘Central’.

The main station building was in true Victorian splendour. It was constructed using the best quality faced bricks and Darley Dale stone with space out in front for Hackney carriages which was covered by a canopy. The three story building had a large 100 feet clock tower in it’s centre topped with a cupola and weather vane. At the north end of the building access could be gained to the parcels office via two large metal gates.

Inside the building, on the ground floor, you reached the spacious booking office. It was over 100ft long and 66ft wide and contained the best quality pine and a hard wearing oak floor along with a balcony to gain access to offices.

The station itself had two large island platforms, each 1270 feet long, with four bays for local traffic giving a total of 12 platforms. Large steel pillars held up an enormous 3-part canopy – the two outer sections being 63 feet across the central one being 84 feet across. These were glazed and gave the station a very impressive ‘cathedral’ look. The main station building was located on Milton Street along with the station hotel.

The platforms both had very similar buildings with a variety of facilities including a telegraph office, refreshment rooms, toilets, many waiting rooms and even a ladies only tea room! The station boasted many facilities for the comfort of passengers – far more than many other stations in the area.

Nottingham Victoria Station circa 1906. Photo Credit: Ed Dexter.

A subway system, below track level, could be used for the movement of luggage in order to avoid carrying it over the footbridges. The station had passing loops round all platforms (for freight), two signal boxes and its own turntable. The two signal boxes were positioned at the north and south ends of the station and controlled entry and exit to the tunnels that allowed entry to the complex.

The traffic that passed through was very varied. It included London-Manchester expresses, local services, cross-country services (from say York to Bristol via Oxford) as well as freight workings. As the station was shared with The Great Northern Railway (already well established when Victoria opened) a superb network of lines going to many destinations was available from the one station.

In its hey-day it was a busy, friendly and grand station which many people loved and thought would last forever. But this was not to be. During the 1960’s the whole Great Central route was being run down by diverting services away from it, cutting others and slowing down expresses to very slack timetables. Locomotives and rolling stock was unreliable and old- the line did not benefit from British Rail’s new diesel locomotives. As passenger numbers fell, either going by car or other lines, closure seemed inevitable. The last through service from Nottingham to London ran on 3rd September 1966. All that was left was a DMU service between Nottingham and Rugby.

The now largely silent Victoria station was finally closed on 4 September 1967 and demolished leaving only the clocktower to survive amongst the Victoria Shopping Centre and flats. The loss of the station was described as one of the worst blights on any UK city. The superb grand station which, if still in existence, would be in great need has now been transformed beyond all recognition.. The clocktower was spared but does not blend into its surroundings at all and stands as an overlooked monument to a once truly great station.

The Clock Tower June 2015.

The Clock Tower June 2015. The clocktower was spared but does not blend into its surroundings at all and stands as an overlooked monument to a once truly great station. Photo Credit: Joseph Earp/Nottingham Hidden History Team.

Posted in Nottinghamshire Industrial History | Leave a comment

Nottingham’s Last Antiquarian and Second-hand Bookshop

by Joseph Earp

The Mansfield Road has always been the main road out of Nottingham, it is still true today. This in mind, the section of road now within the City has become a very busy shopping thoroughfare. The Mansfield Road was once renowned for the number of ‘antique’ and specialist bookshops. By the 2000’s only one of these bookshops would remain, Jermy and Westerman.

The bookshop was established in 1978, by original owners Pete Jermy and Roger Westerman. The bookshop was ran by one of the owners, Pete Jermy. Roger Westerman acted as a ‘sleeping partner’, he would work one weekend a month. By the mid 1980s Pete Jermy decided to move to Tasmania to be closer to family. Pete would later set up a small bookshop ‘Pete Jermy Antiquarian & Second Hand Books Services’ in Ulverstone, Tasmania.

With Pete Jermy now living abroad the shop was put up for sale. The shop was for sale for two years with no buyers. That was until retired Coal Miner Geoff Blore brought the bookshop in 1987. Geoff saw the potential in the business and set up shop with his son Richard Blore. Already running their successful bookshop in Sherwood, Father and Son, were more than experienced for the new business venture.

Jermy & Westerman, 203 Mansfield Rd, Nottingham NG1 3FS – Photo Credit: Joseph Earp.

The shop covered two floors and had a collection covering all subjects from popular reading to rare and interesting books, magazines and comics. The ground floor housed antiquarian books of local relevance as well as a tearoom. As the stairs climbed upwards, so did the eclectic mix of books, which covered every wall and crevice. The shop had been host venue for the Nottingham Poetry Festival, showcasing performances from the likes of Rosie Garner and Henry Normal.

Jermy and Westerman Interior- Photo Credit: Joseph Earp.

The shop would become very successful through the late 1980s, 1990s and early 2000’s. Richard Blore remembers “books would come in from local auctions in their volumes. We are talking tonnage, that we would get through in a week. People would come into the bookshop needing a book on cookery, gardening or something relating to school work for their children. So they would come in and ask have you got this and that. We had customers coming in since the shop was started. When we first started our customer base was regional, but it was also national. We had regulars we knew would travel to Nottingham just to come to our bookshop. When we first started there were eight second hand bookshops in Nottingham as well as numerous book dealers. We were the last to survive”.

By the early 2000s antiquarian and second hand bookshops started to struggle for trade and to survive. Before the internet came along you could see the impact on the trade from CD-ROMS. People who had computers could now access books through their computers. Then the internet was born, websites with information on every subject you could think of impacted on the second hand book trade. In general a reference book will be better than a website on a subject area. It is the convenience of the internet which has won. You can now access literally any subject from your computer and phone, books have now in some cases become obsolete.

In 2019, after over 30 years of trading, Geoff and Richard Blore decided to close their Mansfield Road shop. Geoff had already closed his Sherwood book shop a number of years before that because of competition from over ten charity shops in the area. They officially announced the closure of the shop on their Instagram page on the 7 June 2019: We are very sorry to announce our closure this month, Jermy & Westerman’s last day will be June 15th. We would like to thank all of our customers for their support over the years and we hope that our followers here have enjoyed the images of the shop. We will be open until the 15th June and will continue to post on here until then – Richard & Geoff”.

Notice Announcing the Shop’s Closure- Photo Credit: Joseph Earp.

Although the bookshop has closed Geoff and Richard continue to sell books through the internet. With the closure of Jermy and Westerman, Nottingham in a way has lost a great part of it’s retail history. For hundreds of years second hand bookshops were to be found in every village, town and city in Great Britain. Nottingham had at one time over eight bookshops in the city. It is sad to see Jermy and Westerman go but happy memories of the bookshop will live on for many years to come.

Posted in Nottingham History | Leave a comment

The Old Stones of Nottinghamshire

by Frank E Earp

What eyes inumerable, O ancient stone,
Have gazed and gazed thy antique form upon?

So wrote H.S. Sutton concerning an enigmatic sandstone outcrop at Bramcote near Nottingham, popularly called the Hemlock Stone. In Sutton’s poem, he speaks proudly of the countless generations who have stood by its brooding bulk ‘from woad-dyed savage’ he says, ‘to cavalier.’

Today the Hemlock Stone is largely disregarded, to the extent that in the last few years it has been removed from the list of ‘sites of special scientific interest.’ The old idea of the stone being nothing more than the result of bad quarrying is once again popular and has probably been encouraged by property developers with an eye on the land surrounding the stone. This current lack of interest in the Hemlock Stone has not always been the case and the folk-lore and legends woven around such stones are an essential part of our heritage.

Legend has it that the Hemlock Stone was hurled at Lenton Priory, some four miles west of the stone, by the Devil. This tale of the Devil or some mischievous force hurling a stone and missing its mark occurs throughout the folk-literature of Europe. It is generally accepted that such legends reflect conflict between the early christian Church and their pagan contemporaries. The tale is more often than not associated with prehistoric sites like the large monoliths or standing stones erected by neolithic and bronze age man. Such stones were the centre of pagan worship well into the christian era.

The Hemlock Stone, May Morning 2020- Photo Credit: Joseph Earp.

The village of Kinoulton in south-east Nottinghamshire once possessed a stone with an similar legend to that of the Hemlock Stone. This stone was, from its description, probably a glacial erratic and stood in the church yard close to the old church. Sadly, both church and stone are now destroyed,

It is interesting to compare the Hemlock Stone and Kinoulton legends in more detail. Both stones were believed to be missiles of diabolic origin aimed at ecclesiastical sites, Lenton Priory and Kinoulton church, respectively. The sites from which the stones were reputedly hurled are also of interest. Both are approximately thirty miles from their targets and both have legends of demonic occupants.

The Hemlock Stone was reputedly hurled from the hill above Castleton in Derbyshire. Below this hill, upon which stands Peveril Castle (from which the town derives its name), is the Treekcliff Cavern. This massive limestone cave, once the home of prehistoric man, is reputed to be one of the entrances to the ‘underworld’ and the haunt of the Devil. Moreover, when heavy rain issues from the cave in the form of streamlets, it is said to be the Devil urinating.

In the case of the Kinoulton stone it was supposed to have been thrown from Lincoln Cathedral, where the Devil once let loose that evil entity ‘The Lincoln Imp’ who, after running amock, was turned to stone by an angel.

To return to the Hemlock Stone and how attitudes have changed regarding such wonders. Writing in the mid-eighteenth century, Dr Spencer Timothy Hall, a.k.a. ‘The Sherwood Forester’, provides us with yet more reasons for believing that the Hemlock Stone was once venerated by our pagan forefathers. The good doctor believed the stone to be of natural origin but to be man-enhanced, the result of deliberate quarrying. He goes on to say that when he was a young boy the old folk could remember a time when a fire was lit upon the top of the stone annually on Beltane Day.

Nearby the Hemlock Stone was once the ‘Sick Dyke’. This spring was regarded as a healing well, especially effacacious to rheumatism sufferers. More than one writer on the subject has suggested that the ell was connected with rituals performed at the Hemlock Stone. The Hemlock Stone also has connections with three other stones, a possible standing stone on the nearby Crow Hill  and two other local landmarks, the Cat Stone at Strelley and Bob’s Rock at Sandiacre.

Bob’s Rock, 2013- Photo Credit: Joseph Earp.

Another fascinating Nottinghamshire stone about which little has been written is the Druid Stone at Blidworth. This stone is an eroded glacial deposit, a conglomerate of pebbles and sand, cemented together by stalagmatic limestone. It is over fourteen feet high and has a curious hole bored through it in its base. Through this it is possible to enter the stone looking to the east to see a hole or window cut in the far wall. It has long been claimed that this hole is aligned to the midsummer sunrise. However, a survey carried out by Barry Christian some ten or more years ago revealed that it is in fact aligned to Thom’s megalithic May Day sunrise. Like the Hemlock Stone this stone may well have been associated with the Celtic Beltane. Close by the Druid Stone are the sites of a number of prehistoric tumuli and within a few miles the legendary Friar Tuck’s Well at Fountaindale and yet another of Nottinghamshire’s ‘old stones’, the Forest or Lyndhurst Stone which marks the site of a large boulder called the White Stone.

The Druid Stone, 2017- Photo Credit: Joseph Earp.

This article contains references to just a few of Nottinghamshire’s ‘old stones’. I hope that it serves to provoke interest in these ancient landmarks.

 

From Original Research by Frank Earp and Pete Hannah .

Originally published in Mercian Mysteries, No.6 February 1991. With Thanks to Bob Trubshaw. 

Posted in Bramcote, Nottinghamshire Folklore, Nottinghamshire Suburbs | Leave a comment

Bestwood Lodge

by Frank E Earp

Bestwood Lodge, – now a hotel, – is a large 19th century ‘Country House’ on the edge of Bestwood Country Park. It was originally a medieval Royal Hunting Lodge set within what was once a part of Sherwood Forest.

It is likely that there was some form of hunting lodge in this part of Sherwood from Norman times. The earliest written reference to Bestwood comes from 1160. In that year Henry II granted the Priory at Lenton; ‘two carts to fetch dead wood or heath, as much as they should need for their own use’. This was a great privilege, as the estate at Bestwood was subject to ‘Forest Law’ which meant that all rights and privileges belong to the monarch.

In 1329 Edward III granted Bestwood to Richard De Strelley, ‘for his life’. It is clear that Edward continued to enjoy the rights and benefits of the estate, for we find that in 1335, the King granted De Strelley; ‘all the dry brunches which in English are called slovens or stubbs, within the Hay of Bestwood’.

It is unclear if, at these dates, there was an existing building on the site now occupied by the current house. In 1363 Edward III sent instructions to Robert Maule of Linby, – custodian of the loge, – to fell sufficient timber at Bestwood to enclose the park in order that he might build a lodge in the most attractive part of the enclosure. In 1364, he signed ‘letters patent’ dated at his lodge in Bestwood.

Both Edward IV in 1469 and in 1485, the ill-fated Richard III, hunted in Bestwood whilst staying at Nottingham Castle. Passing into the stewardship of various noble families, Bestwood continue to be one of Royalty’s favourite hunting grounds until the reign of Charles II – when it became a private house.

Three Earls of Rutland have managed the estate. In the reign of Henry VIII, Bestwood was in the hands of Sir Thomas Byron. Henry’s daughter, Elizabeth I, gave Bestwood to the celebrated courtier, Thomas Markham.

Markham received a royal warrant to fell 86 trees from Bestwood to repair the Lodge. It is from this warrant we have our first idea as to what the Lodge looked like. It is described as containing 38 rooms, being built of wood, plastered and roofed with slate and tiles.

We might be fool into thinking that the granting of Bestwood Lodge by Royalty to various Noblemen was a great kindness. However, this is not the case; it was merely a way of getting someone else to pay for the upkeep of the estate. The Royals continued to use the Park for hunting and would expect to stay in comfort at the Lodge whilst doing so.

Bestwood continued to be used as a Royal Hunting Lodge until the reign of Charles II. In 1683 Charles gave the house and entire estate, along with the title 1st Duke of St Albans, to his natural son, Henry Beauclark. It was Henry’s descendant, the 10th Duke of St Albans who in 1860, demolished the medieval hunting lodge and built the house we see today. The house was built in the ‘Gothic’ style and was completed by 1863.

If Bestwood had a ghost, it would be that of the 10th Duke, who would haunt the grounds as a grey suited figure armed with a hoe or other gardening implement. The Duke was very fond of gardening and when in residence at the Lodge would spend his time alone in the grounds tending his plants.

It is the fascinating story of ‘Nell Gwyn’ and how the Lodge and estate passed into the hands of the Beauclark family, which is the subject for another article.

Bestwood Lodge, c.1905

Posted in Bestwood, Nottinghamshire Suburbs | Leave a comment

Just One in Six Million, But His Country Needed Him

By Mitch Peeke

 

Photo Credit: Mitch Peeke

Photo Credit: Mitch Peeke

This medal was purchased by chance, purely in passing, by my daughter, Katie; from Fieldstaff Antiques in Rochester High Street, in September of 2019. She saw it and just thought that it might cheer me up whilst I was laid up, having had a serious motorcycle accident. (I think she also knew that I wouldn’t just say “Thank you” and leave it there)! I have to say, curiosity aroused, it certainly gave me something positive to do!

The medal was easily identified as the Great War Victory Medal, which was awarded to every British Serviceman who’d survived that war. On the bottom edge of the medal, there is an impression which reads: “83870. Gnr. E. Ashley. RA”. Beyond that, there was no other information that came with the medal. So; who was 83870 Gunner E. Ashley? Time for some online detective work, and Army serial numbers are a great starting point!

83870, Edgar Ashley, was born on 14th December 1889 in Nottingham. His Army papers show that he was 5 feet 7 and three-quarter inches tall, weighed 151 pounds and was in good physical condition, having a 38 and a half inch chest that he could expand by three and a half inches. He had a short scar above his left eyebrow and he was a “Telephone Instrument Fitter” by trade. An early phone engineer.

His exact date of enlistment is not shown but it was around mid-May 1916, as his papers give a declared age at enlistment of 26 years, 156 days. His Army medal card shows he was not entitled to either the 1914 Star or the 1914-1915 Star. To qualify for either of those medals, a soldier would have had to have volunteered before conscription was introduced, early in 1916. Therefore, he; like many others, was a conscripted soldier.

He enlisted in his native Nottingham, at No 4 Depot, Royal Garrison Artillery and passed the Army medical at Nottingham Recruitment Centre. Initially, he was posted to the 111th Battery, RGA. There he would receive three months basic Army training, before moving on to a further three to six months of specific Artillery training. After training and practice, he was posted to the 181st Siege Battery, RGA, in France.

The 181st Siege Battery was one of two such units raised at Forth in June of 1916. It was one of ten new Batteries raised that month, the other eight all being raised down South. Armed with BL 6 inch, 26cwt Medium Howitzers, the 181st were sent to France on 12th October 1916.

By 1916, the RGA had grown into a very large component of the British Army and it was still growing at a rate of ten new Batteries per month. The Siege Batteries were all armed with heavy, large-calibre guns and howitzers that had immense destructive power. Hurling its 100lb shells aloft in a high, plunging trajectory, the BL 6 inch, 26cwt Howitzer, with its combination of firepower, (two rounds per minute) range, (9,500 yards) and (for its day, anyway) mobility, was arguably one of the British Army’s most important weapons of World War I. A later variant, fitted with solid rubber tyres mounted on solid metal wheels, was still in active front line service during WW2, such was its design quality.

In WW1, the Artillery would be positioned well behind the infantry battle line, firing at unseen targets and controlled by a Forward Artillery Observer. As the war progressed, the heavy artillery and the techniques of long-range artillery were massively developed. By mid-late 1915, the RGA was often supported by the Royal Flying Corps (RFC) who had devised a system whereby the crew of a spotter aircraft could use wireless telegraphy to give corrections of aim to the guns. The two-man RFC spotter aircraft carried a wireless set, a hand held Aldis Signalling Lamp (in case the wireless set failed), and a map divided into squares. After identifying the position of an enemy target the Observer in the aircraft was able to transmit messages such as “Square A5” (or B3, or C1, etc) in Morse code to a RFC land station attached to a heavy artillery unit, such as the Royal Garrison Artillery’s Siege Batteries. Later advances in the science of Gun Laying enabled the guns to be aimed at co-ordinates on a map calculated with geometry and mathematics; a technique later used in WW2.

The RGA, especially the Siege Batteries, had significantly increased in size by the time Edgar Ashley joined their ranks. The RGA had increased from 32 Regular and Territorial Force Batteries in 1914, to 117 by the end of the war. The Siege Batteries increased from just three Regular Batteries in 1914, to an incredible 401 by the end of the war. Siege Batteries had the largest guns such as 5 inch 60 pounders, 6 inch, 8 inch and 9.2 inch howitzers. There were even a few of these Siege Batteries that had huge 12 inch Howitzers, specially mounted on equally large railway flat cars or on fixed concrete emplacements.

A 6 inch 26cwt Howitzer Battery of the RGA in action on the Western Front in WW1.

Being an Artilleryman in WW1 was not an easy posting. Whilst not quite as risk exposed perhaps as an Infantryman in the trenches, the Royal Artillery collectively lost about 10% of its personnel in WW1, with countless others wounded, or returned home having survived being gassed, but incapacitated. One of the main objectives for the German Artillery was of course to neutralise the British Artillery! To that end, the Germans constantly targeted the British Artillery positions, raining High Explosive, Shrapnel and of course Gas shells onto the British Gunners, who tended to return like for like. Just because the Artillery positions of both sides were behind their respective trenches, did not mean that they were safe positions. Far from it! They were out in the open, not dug in and covered only with light camouflage netting. There was also no crew shield fitted to the guns for the Gunners to get behind either.

Gunner Ashley arrived in France to join the 181st Siege Battery around February of 1917. His arrival amid the cold, the wet and the legendary mud of the Western Front, must have been something of a shock to him. As the Spring came, the weather may have improved and the mud may have dried out somewhat, but the war still raged on with no let up in its ferocity. It was almost inevitable: Near the end of April 1917, Gunner Ashley was badly wounded by Shrapnel to his left forearm. He was sent home to England for treatment and recovery, arriving at Fort Pitt, Rochester, on 20th April. Six days later, he was transferred to the Military Hospital at Lees Court in Faversham, where he remained till 29th May.

The following day, having been discharged from the hospital, he received a ten day leave pass and went back to Nottingham, to the family home at 56, Lees Hill Street, Sneinton; which was and still is, a tall and slim, three-storey, Victorian terraced house that had been their family home since April 1911.

He seems to have been fortunate enough to have come through his time in that awful conflict relatively unscathed, with only the Shrapnel wounds to his left forearm. His wounds were evidently bad enough for him to be sent home, but not bad enough for him to remain there. Ashley returned to his unit on the Western Front at the end of his ten day leave. He remained in France till the Armistice, after which, his unit returned to England.

Gunner Ashley’s military service ended in October of 1919, when the 181st Siege Battery, RGA, was sent to the Reserves. His Discharge Certificate shows that he had obtained a special Army qualification in Gun Laying for a six inch Howitzer Battery. Quite how that was going to help him in Civvy Street is unclear!

After leaving the Army, Edgar Ashley returned home to Nottingham and one might have thought, back to his pre-war occupation as a telephone engineer. However, he ended up working on the Nottingham Fruit and Veg Markets instead. He was awarded the British War Medal in Silver (Combatant) and the Victory Medal, for surviving!

WW1 Victory Medal (Left) and British War Medal, known colloquially as “The Mutt and Jeff Pair”.

There was no sign of his British War Medal in the Antiques shop, just his Victory Medal. This is not uncommon. The War Medal was made from solid Silver, so it had value. During the Great Depression of the 1920’s, it was very common for ex-servicemen to pawn, or even to sell their British War Medal for its scrap value, to help financially. The Victory Medal is not made from precious metal, like the War Medal was, so the Silver-coated Bronze Victory Medals tended to survive.

In July of 1922, Edgar Ashley married Ethel Cheatle, also of Nottingham. They had one child, a son called Roydon, but for whatever reason, the marriage didn’t last. In July of 1928, Edgar re-married. His second wife was Mary Elizabeth Carter; “Polly” to those who knew her, also of Nottingham.

Mary’s first husband had died in 1926 and using a £40 loan from a relative, Mary had opened a Greengrocer’s shop. She subsequently met Edgar at the Fruit and Veg Markets. They too had one child, a daughter, but sadly she died young. They both had children from their previous marriages though. Edgar’s son Roydon, died in 2018, aged 94. Mary had three daughters from her previous marriage.

Edgar and Mary moved to Skegness in Lincolnshire at some point later in their married life, becoming very successful Hoteliers. After 43 years together, Mary died, in 1972.

Edgar.

Mary.

Edgar Ashley died nine years later, in October 1981, at home in Spilsby, Lincolnshire. He was almost 92. What seemed something of a mystery though is this: Although he was temporarily hospitalised at Fort Pitt, Rochester; Edgar Ashley had absolutely no other local connection to the Medway area. He did not return to the Rochester/Chatham area after the war. He spent most of the remainder of his long life in his native Nottingham and he died in Lincolnshire. So of all the places that it could have ended up; how on Earth did his Victory medal come to end up in an Antiques shop just half a mile down the road from where he was initially hospitaised, 100 years after it was awarded and sent to him in Nottingham?! It turns out that one of Mary’s Nephews, John, was last heard of living in Rochester. It would seem likely that he has either recently passed away or perhaps gone into care and his house was cleared, as the proprietor of Fieldstaff Antiques says he acquired the medal as part of a household lot.

Despite my enquiries in specialist online medal forums and the like, no trace of his Silver British War Medal has materialised. Perhaps it went the same way as so many of them. In the meantime: Here’s to the memory of the late Edgar Ashley of Nottingham; who, like so many others of his era, answered his Country’s call in its hour of need. Two, or even three generations down the line, we salute you:

“Lest we forget”

 

Mitch Peeke has a keen interest in aviation, and is a former member of the Kent Gliding Club. He was also an Air Cadet, many years ago! In his spare time, he is often to be found roaring around the countryside on his classic custom 1,450cc Harley Davidson.

A founder member of Lusitania Online (website http://www.lusitania.net), Mitch co- authored Lusitania and Beyond: The Life of Commodore William Thomas Turner (Avid Publications 2001), as well as The Lusitania Story (Pen and Sword Books, 2002 and updated Centenary edition 2015). He also wrote Lost Souls Of The River Kwai (Pen and Sword Books, 2004) with the late Bill Reed, as well as writing 1940: The Battles To Stop Hitler. (Pen and Sword Aviation 2015).

Mitch writes for numerous websites and journals and has contributed to programmes on BBC Radio Kent. He has also acted as a historical advisor to The Discovery Channel as well as smaller, independent film makers. Mitch lives with his wife Jane with whom he has one daughter and one son, (plus Jane’s menagerie of rescued animals!). The family live at Allhallows-on-Sea, near Rochester, Kent; where in June 2019, having recently researched the story, he raised a memorial to the crew of an American B 17 “Flying Fortress” Bomber, which crashed on the beach at Allhallows in 1944 following its first combat mission.

Posted in Nottinghamshire Military History | Leave a comment

How Goose Fair Acquired its Illustrious Name

by Joseph Earp

Traditionally it is thought that the Nottingham Goose Fair got its name from the hundreds of geese which were, at one time driven from Lincolnshire and Norfolk to be sold in Nottingham. However the below tale suggests an alternative origin. A squire is left to bring up his son after his wife’s death, and he prevents the boy from having any contact with women. When the son is older they go to the fair, inevitably they run into some women, and the son is bewildered. The father explains that they are ‘geese’.

Below is the tale which supposedly explains how the name ‘Goose Fair’ came to be. It is taken from a London Magazine from the year 1863:

“Once upon a time there was a certain squire, whose experience of wedded life was such as to induce him to vow that his only son, who had been motherless from his infancy, should never so much as cast eyes upon one of the fair sex until he arrived at that certain age known as ‘years of discretion’. This praiseworthy intention was carried out with the greatest scrupulosity, insomuch that the young hopeful arrived at the time when most youths imagine they have put away childish things, and was in ignorance of the existence of the daughter of eve.

It was, then, in the month of October, that the squire conceived the fatal idea of introducing his son to the enjoyments of the Nottingham Fair. It was a perilous experiment; but it was possible that the youth’s early education would render him wholly insensible to feminine charms, and that he would accord no more notice to the gentler sex than to the gingerbread, ‘learned’ pigs, giants and dwarfs.

The busy scene of the fair was new to the young man, and his eyes wandered wonderingly from one thing to another, until at length they rested upon a fine hat and feathers, and upon the owner thereof into the bargain. ‘What is that Father?’ was the query resulting from the examination. ‘A goose, to be sure!’ was the surly reply. ‘And this? and that? and these? and those?’ continued the son, growing excited as crowds of gaily-attired and merry laughing maidens passed them by. ‘Geese boy, all geese’ quoth the culpably satirical or wilfully mendacious parent. The parent immediately drew the attention of his charge to more instructive objects, and strained every nerve to hit on some all absorbing device which might effectually prevent his thoughts from straying on forbidden ground.

In such attempts the day grew old, and it was time to think of returning home. ‘Well, Joe,’ said the squire, ‘choose something for a fairing. What would you like best?’ Joe did not hesitate. He looked delighted, and astonished his parent by exclaiming ‘A goose, father, please buy me a goose!’.

The story getting wind, that mart (so ’tis said) was ever afterwards known as ‘Goose Fair’”.

Posted in The Nottingham Goose Fair | Leave a comment

Nottinghamshire Hauntings

by Frank E Earp

It is said that there are more legends and stories of ghosts per square mile in Britain than any other place in the world. How can we explain this remarkable fact? Perhaps one of the overriding factors is the rich and varied history and cultural heritage of the British people. These elements are woven into the very landscape in which we live.

There are many different kinds of hauntings. Here, we will look at four Nottinghamshire cases that I believe fall in to the category of ‘genius loci’ – (guardian) spirits of the place.

Bramcote; All that remains of the medieval church of St. Michael in Bramcote is the square tower. Popularly known as ‘The Sunken Church’, the tower, – within the remains of the church-yard, – stands high above the road – Town St., – almost opposite its junction with Cow Lane. In 1978, a motorist driving by the church reported seeing a black hooded figure, – which he described as ‘monk like’, – in the church yard. Later the same year a police officer, driving the same route reported seeing a similar figure.

The 'Sunken' Church. Photo Credit: Joe Earp.

The ‘Sunken’ Church. Photo Credit: Joe Earp.

Calverton; From Nottingham, the ancient road into the village of Calverton begins in Arnold as Calverton Rd. It passes north over the hill known as Dorket Head and crosses the B684 – Lime Lane, Woodborough Rd. From this junction, it takes the name Georges Lane. For just over one mile Georges Lane snakes its way over the wooded Georges Hill and descends into the village where it terminates at Main St. Georges Lane has become infamous for its hauntings. It is said that taxi drivers will avoid using this route into the village. On a dark winters night the lane, – particularly in the wooded section – seems to generate an air of terror. On a number of occasions this has been manifested by an actual presence. Several motorists have reported seeing, – through the rear view mirror, – an old lady sitting in the back of their vehicle and at least one reported a hooded figure. These phantoms usually disappear when the driver attempts to investigate their presence further. A young student returning home one evening was shaken, when her car struck a dark figure that ran out in front of the vehicle. Stopping the car, she got out expecting to find an injured pedestrian lying in the road. However, she could see no one and so she ran home to get help. Although she return with her father and search the area by torch light, no trace of an accident victim was found. The earliest recorded report of the strange haunting on Georges Lane comes from the 1930’s. At around midnight, a young man, – by the name of Bardhill- encountered a strange and frightening entity whilst walking home from the Goose Fair. He had reached the point where Georges Lane begins at Dorket Head, when he saw a dark mass immerge from the hedge-bottom on the left-hand side of the road. Mr Bardhill, – keeping an eye on the ‘thing’ – continued walking. He quickly realised that it was keeping pace with him and as it did so had changed into the form of a tall man wearing what seemed to be a cloak and a broad-brimmed hat. Around the figures shoulders he could clearly see a large silver chain. Although Mr Bardhill could not make out his companions features he could discern a large hooked nose. The figure appeared to glide rather than walk and effortlessly paralleled Mr Bardhill course, even when he had quickened his pace and crossed to the other side of the road. Understandably, Mr Bardhill became very alarmed and began to run, pursued at a short distance by the sinister figure. It was not until he neared the village and home that the phantom disappeared back into the hedge-bottom. Mr Bardhill eventually arrived home in a very distressed state and reported feeling unwell for a number of days after the event. A number of years later, the wife of a local farm was driving along Georges Lane at around dusk. Through the rear-view mirror she could clearly see a figure, – which matched the one described by Mr Bardhill, – sitting in the back of her car. The unwanted passenger stayed with the unfortunate lady all the way to the village where it disappeared as she turned into her drive.

George’s Lane, Calverton. Photo Credit: J Thomas.

Gotham; December 1976 saw the village of Gotham covered with a light blanket of snow. On a cold and frosty night, just before Christmas, Fred Talbot, – a respected member of the community, whose family had lived in the village for generations, – set out to meet his friends for his weekly game of whist. Fred took his usual short-cut through the church-yard. Here, he was to encounter a frightening apparition. Gliding between the tombstones and keeping a parallel course to his, he saw what he later described as a spectral figure of a wild looking man. However, this wasn’t the usual hooded phantom. The man was naked and Fred was later to state that his manhood was decidedly prominent. Keeping the figure in sight, Fred retreated from the church-yard as quickly as possible and arrived at his destination visibly shaken.

Rufford Abbey; Rufford Abbey is said to be one of the most haunted sites in Nottinghamshire. Founded in the 12th century as a Cistercian Priory it became a ‘country house’ at the ‘Dissolution’, later passing to the Savile family in who’s hands it remained until 1938. It is now a country park with the remains of the Priory and house managed by English Heritage. The park is most famously haunted by a tall, black, hooded figure with a skeletal face. He is said to come-upon people from behind and ‘tap them on the shoulder’ and in the early 1900’s is believed to have literally frightened a man to death. There are a number such phantom monks in the county but Rufford is perhaps the best known and most frightening.

Haunted Rufford Abbey. Photo Credit: English Heritage.

Posted in Bramcote, Calverton, Gotham, Nottinghamshire Folklore | Leave a comment

Beeston’s Green Man

by Joe Earp 

 

A Green Man is a sculpture or other representation of a face surrounded by or made from leaves. Branches or vines may sprout from the mouth, nostrils, or other parts of the face and these shoots may bear flowers or fruit. Commonly used as a decorative architectural ornament, Green Men are frequently found in carvings on both secular and ecclesiastical buildings.

Usually referred to in works of architecture as foliate heads or foliate masks, carvings of the Green Man may take many forms, naturalistic or decorative. The simplest depict a man’s face peering out of dense foliage. Some may have leaves for hair, perhaps with a leafy beard. Often leaves or leafy shoots are shown growing from his open mouth and sometimes even from the nose and eyes as well. In the most abstract examples, the carving at first glance appears to be merely stylised foliage, with the facial element only becoming apparent on closer examination. The face is almost always male; green women are rare.

Beeston does indeed have its very own Green Man. Blink and you might miss this one. For those wishing to take some time out from the Town’s busy shopping streets it is recommended that you take a little stroll, – as Beestonians have been doing for over 100 years, – through Dovecote Lane Park. This wonderful wooden sculpture entitled ‘The Green Man’ is located in the enclosed garden area of the park at the Trevor Road end. Rather than saying anything about it, we will let him speak for himself.

The Brass plaque attached to the stone base tells the whole story:

‘This sculpture was carved by Stan Bullard (1920 – 2012), a Beeston sculptor, from a piece of yew tree in autumn 2008. It was undertaken as a commission from Broxtowe Borough Council to replace the ‘One World Sculpture’ on this site which commemorated Earth Summit 1992. The new sculpture has as its theme “man’s interaction with the natural green world.” The sculpture also marks the 100th anniversary of Dovecote Lane park which was opened in 1908′.

The ‘One Word’ sculpture replaced by the Green Man, was another of Stan’s works. It consisted of a ‘totem pole’ type carving of a man’s head, with falcon like shoulders and abstract tree like body. It was painted yellow and black and gloss varnish.

Once again we will let the original plaque tell the story:

‘This sculpture was carved by Stan Bullard, a Beeston sculptor, from a beech tree, felled at Strelley after storm damage. Work commenced in Beeston Square on One World Day, 30th May 1992 and was completed as a commission from Broxtowe Borough Council to commemorate Earth Summit 92′.

Note that Stan gave a live demonstration of his work before completing and installing it in the park.

Posted in Beeston, Nottinghamshire Suburbs | Leave a comment

Carmelite Friars or Whitefriars of Nottingham

by Joseph Earp 

Carmelite tradition traces the origin of the order to a community of hermits on Mount Carmel, which succeeded the schools of the prophets in ancient Israel or the Crusader states. There are no certain records of hermits on this mountain before the 1190s. By this date a group of men had gathered at the well of Elijah on Mount Carmel. These men, who had gone to Palestine from Europe either as pilgrims or as crusaders, chose Mount Carmel in part because it was the traditional home of Elijah. The foundation is believed to have been dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary.

Virtually nothing is known of the Carmelites from 1214, when Albert died, until 1238. The Rule of St. Albert was approved by Pope Honorius III in 1226, and again by Pope Gregory IX in 1229, with a modification regarding ownership of property and permission to celebrate divine services. The Carmelites next appear in the historical record, in 1238, when with the increasing cleavage between the West and the East, the Carmelites found it advisable to leave the Near East. Many moved to Cyprus and Sicily.

In 1242, the Carmelites migrated west. The Order grew quickly after reaching Europe. By the end of the thirteenth century, the order had around 150 houses in Europe, divided into twelve provinces throughout Europe and the Mediterranean. In England, the Order had 30 houses under four ‘distinctions’: London, Norwich, Oxford and York, as well as new houses in Scotland and Ireland. It has been estimated that the total Carmelite population in England between 1296 and 1347 was about 720, with the largest house (London), having over 60 friars, but most averaging between 20 and 30.

Sometime before 1271 a small group of Carmelite Friars acquired a plot of land to establish a new Friary between St. James Lane and Moothall Gate in Nottingham. They also acquired a row of houses which bounded their property to the north along the side of Beast Market Hill. The Friary itself was a modest group of buildings for the Carmelites were an order bound to a vow of poverty and relying on begging and charity for a living. Very quickly after the establishment of the Friary, Moothall Gate became known as Friar Lane, – a name by which it is still known today. The Friars where to remain on this site for the next 250 years.

The friary was dissolved as part of Henry VIII’s Dissolution of the Monasteries. It was surrendered by Prior Roger Cappe on 5 February 1539. The friary was, at the time, home to six friars: William Cooke, William Frost, John Roberts, William Smithson, William Thorpe, Robert Wilson. The friary site was granted, in 1541, to James Sturley of Nottingham.

Nothing remains of the former Friary. It stood near to the south-west corner of Old Market Square; the priory precinct occupying the area between Friar Lane and St James Street. The area has been heavily developed since the dissolution and the site has been “almost solidly built over” It is remembered locally in the street name: “Friar Lane”.

Plan of the Carmelite Friary at Nottingham.

Carmelite Friar

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The Monks Way

Monks Way LogoMonks Way, Monks Path, Monks Steps and Pilgrims Path are all terms used locally to describe the traces of stone paving or causeway which can be found in Cossall, Strelley, Ilkeston and beyond.

The term ‘Monk’s Way’ is a general term frequently used to describe the network of ancient tracks which often linked monasteries and settlements to facilitate trade and communication.

The monastic connection for the paths around Cossall, Strelley and Ilkeston is not clear but it is known that the monks of Dale Abbey, Newstead Priory, Lenton Abbey, Felley Priory and Beauvale Priory had land and mining interests in the areas around the Erewash Valley as early as the 14th century. It is therefore possible that the stones are all that is left of routeways that perhaps linked the monasteries and provided access to Nottingham and the River Trent.

Ancient Routeways

As long as man has needed to trade there have been transport routes from the place of production to the point of sale. Many roads and paths originate from medieval times or even earlier when packhorses or mules were often the main method of transport for goods. These early tracks often linked to rivers where goods could be transported in bulk.

Canals and railways were a further development requiring new or adapted transport links to feed the barges or trains. Man’s activities, including mining and road construction, have obliterated many ancient tracks, but it is still possible to discover the signs of old pathways if you know where to look!

Who laid the stones?

Legend has it that the stones were laid by monks who brought a slab on the back of a mule each time they used the path. This may be true but equally there are theories that the stones are more recent having been laid for the transport of coal by packhorses during the 18th century.

No-one knows for sure the origins of the Monks Way although the stone paths almost certainly pre-date the canal ere (the Nottingham Canal was built in 1796) and may well be laid over an ancient route.

Where can the stones be seen?

The map of the Monks Way shows where the stones can be found. They are most obvious at Main Street, Strelley where they are incorporated into the footpath from the Broad Oak Public House up to the church. Traces can be found on the paths and bridleways linking with Cossall village and several sections have been uncovered on Mill Lane at Cossall between the Nottingham Canal and the railway.

It is known that the stones were removed from Park Road at Ilkeston when the road was constructed. A number of stones salvaged from this area can be found at the Erewash Museum, High Street, Ilkeston.

There is little doubt that other stones remain intact buried under grass or road surfaces, however sections were also borrowed to find new purpose as barn floors or walling in nearby farms and cottages.

Small areas of sandstone paving exist away from the route shown on the plan, one example being the path which links the Nottingham Canal with Nottingham Road near to Furnace Road on the Ilkeston/Trowell border. This seems to be an isolated path and is believed to be a remnant of the original Nottingham to Ilkeston Turnpike which was realigned in 1874.

Map of the Monks Way

 

 

All information above by kind permission of Peter Woodeward of the now defunct Broxtowe Hundred Website and Broxtowe Borough Council. 

Posted in Nottinghamshire Suburbs, Strelley | Leave a comment