"If only half of the history that has happened in Nottingham had happened in some other place, that place would be famous; but because it did happen here no one knows".
Almost opposite the parish church of St.Mary of the Purification at Blidworth, was the site of the Ashwell, a spring not mentioned in my Nottinghamshire Holy Wells and Springs (APRA Press, 1988). This was covered up and a wall built in front of it some time after the 1914-18 war, but before then it had been used for centuries not just as source of water for the village but also for its healing properties, the water being considered to be particularly efficacious in curing rheumatism relieving the pain caused by it. The spring’s name is now preserved in that of a nearby cottage.
The name Ashwell was derived from a huge ash tree that grew adjacent to the spring; in 1800 this accidentally cut down, a deed which caused consternation in the village, as the tree thought to bring good luck. There is was itself an ancient tradition about ash trees themselves having curative powers. It was an old practice to cleft asunder ash trees when they were young and flexible, the cleft being held apart by wedges. Children with ruptures were stripped naked and pushed through the apertures, after which the trees were plastered with clay or mud in order to enable the clefts to grow together. On this the success of the cure was thought to depend. Ancient ash trees showing cicatrices down their sides are evidence of them having been used for this practice. The people who had cut down the tree are said to have suffered from extreme bad luck and illness, which the spring water failed to relieve.
At Fountain Dale, near Blidworth, adjacent to where a monastic structure once stood, is Friar Tuck’s Well, a chalybeate spring, the water of which was also said to have medicinal properties. According to a letter from the Rev. R.H. Whitworth, Vicar of the village from 1865 until 1908, to the late Ernest Smedley, a local historian and student of folklore, who lived in Hucknall, the spring was still visited by people anxious to use its healing water. He also added, that at one time in the remote past it had been called St. Lawrence’s Spring, though other than this reference I have not met with that name being applied to it in any other Source book on the village. The well is now in a poor state of preservation, mainly due to a tree having fallen on its surrounding fence and demolishing it. According to local tradition the spring, which periodically dries up for long periods, does so because of a curse laid on it by Friar Tuck. Blidworth has close connections with the Robin Hood saga, the village having been the traditional home of Maid Marion, and the supposed grave of Will Scarlet can be seen in the churchyard.
The lakes at Fountain Dale house are fed from Rainhill Water, one of the streams running into which is called the Foulevil Brook, which by tradition received its name because the Romans are said to have bathed in it to cure a skin disease called the foul evil.
Article originally published in Hidden History Magazine, 1990.
The Snotingas were an Anglo-Saxon tribe who took their name from a chieftain called ‘Snot’ or ‘Snod.’ Derived from the word Snottenga, meaning Nottingham (Snotengaham) signifies literally the Ham (settlement) of the people of a person called Snot. The Snotingas occupied the settlement of Snotengaham or Snodengaham.
Nottingham Anglo Saxon chieftain ‘Snot’.
SNOT ILLUSTRATION BY EVA BRUDENELL.
The earliest (British) name for Nottingham was ‘Tig Guocobauc’ which was first mentioned by Alfred the Greats Biographer Asser. Nottingham is renowned for its ancient cave dwellings and Tig Guocobauc does mean precisely ‘cavy house’ in old Welsh (British).
Around 600 AD, the Snotingas gave their name to the settlements of Nottingham, which were first recorded as ‘Snotengaham’ or literally ‘the homestead of Snot’s people.’ Over the years, the city’s name was gradually modified until it became known as Nottingham around the 12th century.
The first documentary record of the name Snotengaham is in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle entry for 868. Names of this form normally represent settlements established in the 6th or 7th century and associated with tribal groupings, indicating that Nottingham was probably formed as the primary settlement of the Snotingas, whose wider territory would have formed a regio or administrative subdivision of the Kingdom of Mercia. Anglo-Saxon pottery from the 7th or 8th century has been found in Fisher Gate within a defensive ditch that can also be seen in Woolpack Lane and Barker Gate, suggesting the first Anglo-Saxon settlement took the form of a small defensive enclosure in this area.
The placename of Nottingham and the large amount of land in Royal ownership at the time of the Domesday Book probably indicate that the settlement was the Snotingas’ royal vill or administrative centre during the early Anglo-Saxon period. The remains of a large 8th-century timber hall situated in its own enclosure has been excavated in Halifax Place.
Halifax Place where the remains of a large 8th-century Anglo-Saxon timber hall have been discovered. Photograph Credit: Joseph Earp.
This was replaced in the 9th century by an even larger bow-sided timber hall that was at least 100 feet (30 m) long – at least as long as any hall known to have been built in England at this time. This was later replaced by a series of three halls built further to the west, which survived until the 11th century, when they were replaced in turn by a large stone-built aisle hall. These halls all fronted the street now known as High Pavement, the main street of the Anglo-Saxon settlement, and are similar to halls excavated in Northampton known to have been palaces of Mercian Kings.
Viking Nottingham (Snotengaham) was captured in 867 by Danish Vikings who had conquered North East and Eastern England. They turned Nottingham into a fortified settlement or burgh. It became one of the Five Burghs – or fortified towns – of The Danelaw. The divide was ruled by the Vikings (Danes) and called the Danelaw. It was later recaptured by the Anglo-Saxons under Edward the Eldar in 918
Danish (Viking) Invasion.
The Church of St Mary the Virgin in Nottingham, is the oldest religious foundation in the City, established as a minster as early as the late 7th century. The extent of its minster parish is likely to represent the original extent of the Snotingas. The church is in the Lace Market, which is known to be the oldest area of Nottingham.
St Mary’s Church, Nottingham. Photograph Credit: Joseph Earp.
With the new Napoleon film starring Joaquin Phoenix gracing our cinema screens this week, I wanted to write something about Nottingham’s relationship with the Napoleonic period, whether it be local individuals, the regimental actions, or the work of others; that when we mention Napoleon Bonaparte or the Napoleonic Wars, Nottingham is never too far away.
John Borlase Warren
Hailing from Stapleford Hall, John Borlase Warren joined the Royal Navy in 1777 as a young Midshipman and worked his way through the ranks to Admiral by 1795. As Republicanism spread rapidly through France, Toulon, the last French stronghold loyal to the deposed monarch was handed over to a joint British and Spanish force as a foothold for their armies to enter France and push back the Republican forces. Toulon fell in 1793 after it was stormed by Republican forces (a certain Napoleon Bonaparte was present as an artillery officer) and all of France was now in the grip of Republicanism. In 1795 Warren was tasked with transporting and landing a force of exiled French Royalist troops and their officers to the Quiberon Peninsula in Brittany with the intention that the Royalist army would gradually push back against Republican army and reinstate the deposed monarch to the throne. However, once the troops had landed on French soil and secured a beachhead, their commanders dithered on the next course of action, giving the Republican army enough time to entrench themselves and bring up reinforcements. Unable to break out from their positions, the Royalist army had to re-embark on their transports and find another suitable landing point. By the time they were prepared to land again, the combination of bad weather and heavy opposition meant they couldn’t land and the expedition returned home. Warren’s expedition was the one and only chance to fight back again the Republican army before they became too strong.
45th (1st Nottinghamshire) Regiment
The 45th saw action in most of the battles against France in Spain and Portugal from 1808 – 14. One of their more notable actions was the storming of the border fortification Badajoz in April 1812. Will walls too high, and ladders not long enough, the fortress was stormed by a combination of battering the strong medieval walls down with cannons and then sending wave after wave of troops to take the walls under a hail of cannon fire. Suffering heavy losses, a small party of the 45th under Lt James MacPherson managed to find a lightly defended section of the walls and broke through. Fighting their way to the castle tower they killed all opposition before them and fought their way to the top.
Upon reaching the top of the tower, MacPherson tore down the French flag and took off his own jacket and ran it up the flagpole to signify to Wellington that British troops were now inside the fortification. (See Picture B) To this day in Nottingham, a redcoat is run up the flagpole on Badajoz Day at various points around the city.
59th (2nd Nottinghamshire) Regiment
The 59th spent much of the Napoleonic wars in the West Indies and the East. However, they took part in the disastrous Walcheren Expedition where two-thirds of British troops came down with a fever which abruptly ended any hopes of the expedition’s success. They did serve at Waterloo but were stationed well away from the main battle. However, due to suffering little casualties in the battle, they were chosen to spearhead the advance of Wellington’s forces as they chased the French army back to Paris. Two weeks before a peace treaty was officially signed, there was an exchange of fire between French piquet’s and British troops on the outskirts of Paris. Denis Wonahan, an Irish soldier in the 59th was shot and killed, thus making him one of, if not THE, last soldier to ever be killed by the armies of Napoleon.
Thomas Wildman
A young officer serving as aide-de-camp to Wellington’s cavalry commander and second in command at Waterloo, the Earl of Uxbridge. Wildman was present when Uxbridge was hit in the leg by a cannon ball. Wildman later bought Newstead Abbey from his friend Lord Byron.
Colonel Arthur Benjamin Clifton
Col. Arthur Clifton was present as Waterloo and took command of the 2nd Union Cavalry Brigade when their commander was hit.
The Scots Greys
Due to aggressive industrial action by the Luddites in 1813, the local magistrates felt that the local yeomanry units had very little power to prevent further attacks and were even at risk of joining the Luddite cause. They requested a stronger, impartial force to be dispatched to the area and were provided with The Scots Greys. Considered one of the most feared cavalry units in Europe at the time, the Scots Greys already had a long, established history right back to the Restoration period and were one of the oldest regiments in the British army. The Scots Greys were stationed in the barracks (now just off Derby Road) close to the Castle so that any attacks by the Luddites could be dealt with quickly. It wasn’t uncommon during this period for officers of regiments to purchase their own swords and pistols whilst on station somewhere. There were a number of gunsmiths and cutlers close to the barracks and in the town square who may have sold weapons to the Scots Greys whilst on duty in Nottingham. Two years later in 1815 as the Scots Greys charged at the French positions (see Picture E) at Waterloo, some of them may have been carrying pistols and swords manufactured in Nottingham.
John Shaw, Richard Waplington and Thomas Wheatley of Cossall
In Cossall churchyard today you will find a monument to three men of the village who fought at Waterloo. John Shaw and Richard Waplington both had joined the Lifeguards in 1807. Shaw, a miner and carpenters apprentice was strong for his age. He used this to his advantage and took up a side job as a pugilist, making extra money on top of his army pay from boxing matches. Both Shaw and Waplington’s height and strength earned them the nickname The Cossall Giants. Both Shaw and Waplington fought with the Lifeguards at Waterloo and both were slain on the field. Waplington was last seen holding a French Eagle before being cut down from the saddle. Shaw, surrounded by French soldiers snapped his sword and removed his helmet to use as a club to beat at the French troops surrounding him before he too was overwhelmed and killed. Thomas Wheatley, serving in a light dragoon regiment, survived the battle and returned to Cossall. He died in the almshouses just across from the church and is buried under the present day monument.
Isaac Chetham
Isaac Chetham (Sometimes spelled Cheetham) was promoted from Sergeant-Major in the 29th Foot to Ensign in the 79th and later a Lieutenant in the 40t. He served in the majority of the Peninsula War battles and was wounded three times during his career in the army.
He died at his home in Nottingham in 1854 and is buried in Nottingham General Cemetery.
Richard Rutherford-Moore
Even in popular culture Nottingham has never been far from the Napoleonic Wars. When production was granted for a Napoleonic based series about a rifleman and his exploits based on the books by Bernard Cornwell called Sharpe, the production team sought their military advice from a group of 95th re-enactors who regularly met at Belvoir Castle. One of the group, Richard Rutherford-Moore (Picture H), would go on to be the military advisor for the entire Sharpe series. During this time, Richard lived somewhere near Nottingham Castle. Interestingly, some of the green jackets that the re-enactors used were re-conditioned NCT bus driver’s jackets as the colour of the green cloth was very similar to the shade of green found on early riflemen uniforms.
And if this article has piqued your interest and you are suddenly extremely interested by Nottingham and the Napoleonic Wars, this information can be found in my book, Nottingham Versus Napoleon.
This is by no means an exhaustive list of all Nottingham’s connections to the Napoleonic period. There were undoubtably thousands of individuals who fought stook in their ranks shoulder to shoulder with their mates and fired volley after volley into the French ranks during the Napoleonic Wars. But it goes to show, that when we talk about the Napoleonic period, it is not just limited to far away battles on the continent, and far away places like Paris, Moscow or Madrid. Now when watching the film once it is released next week, we are able to see the impacts that the war had on unlikely individuals and the ordinary places back home.
In 14th July 1826 George Milnes aged 34 and Joshua Smith aged 25 were brought before the judge at Shire Hall, Nottingham, on a charge of “burglarously entering the house of Mr. Wheat of Retford on 31st May” and stealing a silver cup and large quantity of drapery goods to the value of £200. They had been taken into custody near Ordsall with part of the stolen property on their persons and had vigorously resisted arrest. The judge found them guilty and sentenced them to “expiate their crime on the scaffold”. Within less than a fortnight of their crime, on 26th July they were executed and, after hanging for the “usual length of time”, were cut down and taken into County Hall.
Milne, a native of Wiltshire and a deserter from the 4th Dragoon Guards, was buried immediately in St. Mary’s churchyard. Smith, alias Shepherd, was taken to his wife’s house in Wool Alley on Barker Gate. Later the same day, at 8.00 p.m., he was buried in the Old Burial Ground (Middle Bury), Barker Gate.
Though not attended by a clergyman, the pressure to catch a glimpse of the coffin was greater than at the hanging, with crowds on all the surrounding walls and at windows making it difficult for the criminal’s wife and mother to force a passage to the graveside.
Wool Alley ran from Barker Gate to Woolpack Lane and was just below the old Old Cricket Players Public House. It was part of a parcel of land that had been gardens and orchards belonging to a large house, which had stood there since the 17th century. Alongside Wool Alley was an 18th Century 3-storey framesmith’s workshop, the top floor of which had contained an early school.
There seems to have been no surprise that Smith was buried in St. Mary’s burial ground without the benefit of a clergyman being present. Did criminals forfeit the right to a Christian funeral 175 years ago, if not a Christian place for interment?
Punishment followed the crime in a swift and brutal way in those days. The idea of people flocking to see a public execution is distasteful to us now. They were abolished many years ago. However they were of great interest and spectators were trampled to death by crowds on High Pavement at one particularly popular hanging (see William Saville article).
On 3rd July 1854 120 men of the Scots Greys gathered in the market place in Nottingham and were received by the people of the town, Mayor Jonathon Reckless, and the Nottingham Corporation for a farewell as the regiment had been requisitioned to serve in the growing conflict in the Crimea.
The troops, led by Colonel Griffiths, formed a square in the centre of which stood J. Reckless and other dignitaries, toasting, drinking and making speeches. The military band played several songs and this was followed up with a speech made by Reckless.
Reckless concluded his speech with the following statement “When I was a little boy, some 13 or 14 years of age, I saw this same regiment march out of Nottingham to Waterloo. It was the grandest sight I ever saw. I have witnessed many exciting scenes in my time, but never one that made so deep an impression on my mind as that. You marched to Waterloo and you obtained glory. I trust the like glory awaits you in the east. You have with you the good wishes of the town of Nottingham and everyone will watch your proceedings with the greatest interest. Good luck to you, and God Bless you and all your exertions in the course of your country!”
Obviously followed up with more drinking, cheering and farewells as the soldiers marched out of Nottingham towards Derby, then onwards to Liverpool where they boarded boats to go to The Crimea.
The Barracks
The cavalry barracks (no longer standing but just behind Barrack Lane on Derby Road) were constructed in 1792 on land leased by The Duke of Newcastle. The barracks were not constructed because of renewed hostilities with France, but due to the growing number of industrial actions of framework knitters in the area. Prior to 1792, troops stationed in the town were billeted in local inns and their behaviour due to lack of control from their officers was questionable and brought certain Regimental reputations into disrepute. In order to maintain better discipline and control of the troops, it was decided to build cavalry barracks that could house 120 men and contain them all to one area, but close enough to Nottingham Castle that should a mob attack, like in 1831, they could ride out and disperse the rioters within a matter of minutes.
The 1851 Census shows the Barrack strength as being 8 officers, 23 NCO’s, 138 troopers, 1 officer’s wife, 13 other rank’s wives and 34 non-military staff such as sutlers, servants etc.
In 1811, industrial action in Nottingham was severely ramped up with frequent frame breakings, beatings and arson attacks carried out by the Luddites. The frequency and severity of the attacks were so bad that in February 1812, 3 regiments of men (c. 3000 in number) were quartered all over the town to prevent attacks on the industry and the Castle. The attacks got so bad that in 1813 the Scots Greys were billeted in the barracks to deter further industrial actions. The interesting point here is that up until 1813, most industrial actions and riots were dealt with by local militias, the South Notts Yeomanry, the Bunny Troop of Yeomanry (yes that was a unit!) were used to deal with local issues. However, rumour began to circulate that the rioters were actually being stirred up by French agents despatched to the UK by Napoleon to stir up problems internally. The authorities became so concerned by this that they felt that local yeomanry units would have no power to stop the ever increasing riots so they despatched ‘the big guns.’ The Scots Greys, these big, looming men on horses, feared for their ferocity in battle and with a long and proud regimental heritage would be enough to deter further rioting AND potentially deal with any French saboteurs / agents who were in the area.
In Gareth Glover’s excellent book A Scots Grey at Waterloo: The Remarkable Story of Sergeant William Clarke, this is corroborated as in 1813 troops of the Scots Greys were ‘moved frequently during this season and occupied Derby, Chesterfield, Sheffield, Mansfield, Newark and Nottingham.’
Edward Almack’s The History of The Second Dragoons: Royal Scots Greys also corroborates that the Scots Greys were stationed in Nottingham for part of 1813. Based on research also conducted by John Foreman of the Royal Scots Dragoon Guards Association, the regiment was in Nottingham from April 1st 1813 – June 28th 1813, and didn’t return again until 1822!
These same sources also agree that following the first capitulation of Napoleon in 1814, the regiment was broken down to 8 troops in July of that year and went into winter quarters in Bristol and Trowbridge. They remained there until Napoleon escaped exile on Elba and returned to France in March 1815. The regiment hastily recruited and built their number back up to 10 troops, 6 of which were to be sent abroad and 4 held in Ipswich. The Greys remained in Trowbridge until 8th April 1815, then marched to Gravesend where they embarked on troop transports at Northfleet on 15th April and arrived at Ostend in the Low Countries on 21st April 1815 to make up the hastily patched together Allied army that was gathering to face off a renewed threat by the French.
The lease of the land by The Duke of Newcastle to the Army ended in 1855 and barracks were closed and the headquarters of the East Midland District moved from Nottingham to Sheffield. The last troops to occupy the barracks were the 11th Hussars who marched out in May 1860. The barracks were all but gone by 1870 with the new Park Estate housing being built on the site.
Another important point to note here is that during the 18th and 19th Centuries, the army did not equip officers with their weapons and they were at complete liberty to purchase their own guns and swords. Given that there were a number of cutlers and gunsmiths in Nottingham during this time period means that whilst the Scots Greys were stationed in Nottingham in 1813, officers of the regiment would have the freedom to explore the town and purchase their own weapons may very well have purchased swords and pistols in Nottingham and have carried them on the field of Waterloo two years later.
In any case, there is absolutely no evidence whatsoever that The Scots Greys were in Nottingham just before Waterloo in 1815 as claimed by Jonathan Reckless in 1854.
So what did Jonathan Reckless witness in 1815?
Possibilities are:
He misremembered the dates and confused 1813 with 1815
He wanted to stir up the crowd and said something he knew would get emotions running high
He may have seen another cavalry unit in the area like the Life Guards or Royal Dragoons and somehow thought they were the Scots Greys
Potentially he saw a recruiting party (normally numbering a handful of men) as in the build up to Waterloo would have been active in every town, hastily recruiting impressionable young men to fight the newly returned French tyrant. Like other towns, Nottingham market place would be a hub of recruitment activity with parties from all kinds of regiments vying for fresh recruits. There may have been a strong likelihood that a Scots Greys recruiting party was in the area and he remembered them but over the years exaggerated their actual number until he convinced himself that a large portion of the regiment was stationed at the barracks.
Whatever the reason, the Scots Greys and Nottingham share a unique history together and their legacy within the city has left its mark on the people of Nottingham.
Sources:
Nottingham Date Book
The History of The Second Dragoons: Royal Scots Greys by Edward Almack
The Robin Hood/St. Ann’s Well was by no means the only medicinal spring in the St. Ann’s valley, for there were at least two more we know of, the waters of both having the reputation for being good for treating eye complaints. Each was called the Rag Well, the name coming from the practice of visitors leaving the fragments of the damp linen they used to bathe their eyes with hanging from nearby bushes. First mentioned by Deering in the 17th century, one was was situated at the bottom corner of New Road, or Coppice New Road, Ransom Road (on the Nottingham Enclosure Map, Clayfields and Mapperley Hills, the spring is shown in plot No.511), the second being in a field on the left hand side when entering Thornycroft Road, formerly Wood Lane, from St. Ann’s Well Road (Nottingham Guardian, 20/7/1918). According to Deering the first spring sometimes ceased to flow during the summer whereas the second, being at lower level, never failed.
In 1887 a police station was erected adjacent to the first spring and the well bricked up, however, its water was run through an iron pipe to a drinking fountain placed in a nearby wall. In 1890 a shelter for cabmen was built next to the police station and the drinking fountain replaced by another which took its water from the Corporation mains supply.
According to the Nottingham geologist, James Shipman, the water of the rag wells was good for sore eyes because in percolating down from the Mapperley Hills, where he claimed it had fallen as rain, the water had crossed a bed of clay containing Fuller’s Earth. Shipman wrote of personally experiencing the beneficial effect of the water from the rag springs, claiming to have been excellent for remedy relieving inflammation of the eyes. In his youth, he wrote, he had heard local people advising visitors to take some of it away with them in bottles. The fate of the first Rag Well has been given above, the second seems to have survived into the 1920s, when we hear no more about it, so it must be assumed it was blocked off when houses were constructed on its site.
Article Originally Published in Hidden History Magazine.
Says Ren; pray see what I got here; It is a groaning Cheese, ’twas made From Io’s Milk, and Faunus had The ordering of it, ‘twould have been Kept for Dame Juno’s Lying in,
Bernard Mandeville’s ‘Fable of the Bees’ 1705.
The ‘groaning cheese’, – sometimes referred to as ‘groaning cake’, – custom was not confined to Nottinghamshire, but was to be found throughout the Country, particularly in northern England. It is said to have originated in Anglo Saxon times but there are many references expressing its popularity throughout the medieval period. The first written reference to the custom in Nottinghamshire is much later and connects it to the County’s legendary Fair Maid of Clifton. William Sampson in his play; ‘The Vow Breaker, Or The Faire Maide of Clifton’, published in 1630, has one of his characters say; “….bring the groaning cheece, and all requisites, I must supply the fathers place, and bid god-fathers.”
As the name suggests the custom involves a cheese and its ritual consumption. On discovering a pregnancy the mother-to-be makes or commissions to be made, a large round flat cheese. This cheese is set aside to ripen throughout the pregnancy. Consumption of the cheese began on the day the mother began her labour and entered into confinement or ‘lying in’. This period was also known as the ‘groaning time’, – hence ‘groaning cheese’. Traditionally the cheese was eaten from the centre outward and continued until only a ring of rind remained or a hole had been created in the centre, which was large enough to pass the baby through. On the day of the infants naming ceremony or Christening, should there be any remaining cheese, this was distributed to the guests. The child was then passed through the hole in the cheese a prescribed number of times depending on local custom.
We find that the groaning cheese custom has all of the ‘hallmarks’ of ritual rebirth with the cheese representing the sun or moon. Of the two, it is the moon that may be symbolically represented in the custom. As everyone knows, the moon is made of cheese and most cheeses are in fact white rather than yellow. Throughout Britain, there are a number of folk customs and traditions associated with cheese. In the main, these usually involve cheese rolling in one form or other, – the most famous of these being at Cooper’s Hill in Gloustershire. There are also ‘Moonraking’ folk tales’ like those from Gotham and villages in Wiltshire. In these stories the reflection of the full moon in the village pond or other body of water is mistaken for a large cheese and an attempt to recover this free meal is made by raking it from the water.
In recent years, the groaning cheese custom has made something of a come-back, only now consumption of the cheese begins with the child’s birth. The old Saxon meaning of the word groaning has been largely forgotten or ignored.
Standing on its cliff-top eminence on the south-east corner of Nottingham’s famous lace market, the cathedral- like High Pavement Chapel has for over a hundred years stood as a visible manifestation to liberal Christianity in a great Midland city.
The chapel was the meeting place for local Unitarians, who had met and worshipped since 1691 at High Pavement, though the congregation has its origin in the Act of Uniformity of 1662, when almost two thousand ministers were dispossed for refusing to accept its terms. These included three ministers in Nottingham, the Revs, John Barret, John Whitlock and William Reynolds, and it is to these individuals and the public support they received, despite persecution, which was eventually to develop into the Presbyterian and Unitarian groups. The Nottingham Presbyterian organisation was established by 1655, according to the Rev, Gordon Bolam’s High Pavement Chapel, Nottingham (Nottingham, Nd.), though in another publication, 1662- 1962, Three Hundred Years. The Story of the Churches Forming the North Midland Presbyterian and Unitarian Association, the same author gives the date as 1656.
The needs of the High Pavement congregation were ministered to by a number of very able people, some of like whom, the Rev. George Walker, FRS.
Another, P.W. Clayden, went on to become editor of a national daily paper, though he ministered to a London congregation at the same time. The minister who gave High Pavement its distinctive Unitarian character was the Rev. James Tayler, who was minister at the chapel for twenty-nine years, from 1802 till 1831. In the words of the Rev. C. Gordon Bolám, he declared his Unitarianism and “carried his people with him”.
A man who created considerable controversy was the very able orator, J.M. Lloyd Thomas. He was appointed in 1900, who built the congregation considerably, however, he departed to take over a Unitarian chapel in Birmingham in 1912. This may well have been more of a blessing than a blow to Nottingham, for while Thomas’s strong advocacy of Christian Socialism might have been acceptable to most of the Nottingham congregation, for the Unitarians had a strong radical streak in their history. His attachment to a ritualistic religious group called the Society of Free Catholics, of which he became President, may well have produced not only controversy but a split which could have destroyed the congregation. This could have particularly happened if he had openly sought to have his Unitarian ministerial status “upgraded” by obtaining what ritualists termed “valid orders”. Thomas did not openly seek to bring ritualism to Birmingham’s Old Meeting, but there were rumours about the ideas he entertained.
It was in 1876 when the present neo-gothic chapel was erected, replacing a two hundred year old meeting house standing in a court behind High Pavement. According to John Blackner, writing in 1815, the old meeting house, as he calls the chapel, was fifty-nine feet by fifty feet, and while by no means the largest such building in Nottingham it was, in his words, the most majestic as well as possessing the most commanding appearance of any chapel in the town. Built from Bulwell stone, the new building mirrored many of the other churches of its era, a time when church building in Nottingham was undergoing a boom. The architect was Stuart Colman, but according to Nikolaus Pevsner, his design has no special architectural merit. However, there is a rather fine east window which was made by William Morris and Company to a design by Burn Jones, a leading pre-Raphelite artist.
The congregation was non too happy about their fine new chapel for it was found to be draughty and never warm enough in winter; they did not have a very high opinion of the the acoustics either. The draughts were never eradicated despite all attempts to if some comments on the chapel in The Unitarian for May 1985 are to be believed, Blackner also noted that the congregation in his day “was one of the most respectable….in the town”.
The building was used as a place of worship for Unitarians until 1982. It was then converted into the Nottingham Lace Museum, but this venture proved financially unviable. The building was then converted to its current use, as a public house.
Article originally published in Hidden History Magazine, 1987.
Nottingham’s High Pavement Chapel Seen from the South, September 2019- Photograph Credit: Joseph Earp.
Chilwell was originally a hamlet on the road from Nottingham to Ashby-de-la-Zouch. It is mentioned in the Domesday Book, but along with Toton it became part of the parish of Attenborough. Suburban development spread gradually from Beeston along Chilwell High Road.
The area’s population grew substantially during World War I, when most of the area of level ground between Chilwell and Toton was occupied by the National Shell Filling Factory. The original direct route between Chilwell and Toton became a gated military road, now known as Chetwynd Road.
Chilwell’s industry in the 18th and 19th century was mainly agricultural and horticultural industries. Hosiery and lace manufacturing was also to be found in the area. One of the other industries found in Chilwell around this time was brick making.
Chilwell Brickyard was located off the top of Field Lane. The entrance was off the corner at the bottom of School Lane. The exact location of the brickyard is where modern day Leamington Drive and Letchworth Crescent meet. The original entrance to the brickyard off School Lane is still there and is now a cut through to the houses on Leamington Drive (see photo).
The original entrance to the brickyard off School Lane is still there and is now a cut through to the houses on Leamington Drive. Photograph Credit: Joseph Earp.
The brickworks at Chilwell seem to have been worked by several generations of the Thompson family and was in operation for well over 100 years. The earliest date found for the Thompson family at the works is 1865. From other information found it seems that the brick works was possibly started up to twenty years earlier then that.
Edward Thompson of Breaston had taken over the Chilwell brickworks on the 31st of December 1865. It had previously operated as J.G. Thompson & Company. This company had been owned by John Garton Thompson of Chilwell and Richard Thompson of Chellaston. The latter two of this partnership had retired from brickmaking. As a normal time span for a brickmaker was up to twenty years, it would seem plausible that John Garton Thompson started the brickyard around 1845. With Edward Thompson taking over the business on New Years Eve 1865 and an entry in a trade directory for a Henry Thompson at the works in 1876, it appears that Edward Thompson owned the business for around ten years.
The first trade directory entry for a owner of the works is for Henry Thompson in Kelly’s 1876 edition. This entry continues until 1908 when the entry reads Henry Thompson (exors of). Kelly’s 1912 edition then records William Thompson at the works. This would suggest that Henry had passed away and William took over ownership of the brick works. It is quite possible that William was Henry’s son. William continues to be listed for the brickyard in Kelly’s Directory up until the last available directory in 1941.
Chilwell Brickyard Early 1900s. Chimney to the Brickworks as seen from Redland Drive, Chilwell. Photograph taking shortly before the brickworks was demolished.
The exact year Chilwell Brickyard closed is unknown, but the brickyard was certainly operational into the early 1960’s. The brickyard was demolished in the late 1960s/early 1970s and modern day Leamington Drive and Letchworth Crescent was built on the site. The former brickyard may be gone but it has left it’s mark on the area. Walking around modern day Leamington Drive and Letchworth Crescent you can literally get a feel for where the brickyard was located and see the physical impression it has left on the local area.
Chilwell brickyard chimney demolition. Chilwell Brickyard was located off the top of field lane. The entrance was off the corner at the bottom of School Lane. It was demolished in the 1960’s.Demolition of the Brickyard at Chilwell, circa late 1960s/early 70s? Photograph taken from the top of Oakdale Drive, Chilwell. Photograph Credit: Waldin Robey.The site of Chilwell Brickyard today now Leamington Drive. Photograph Credit: Joseph Earp.
Housed within the dome of the Nottingham Council House is the affectionately-nicknamed ‘Little John’ bell. For years this bell has been heard hour by hour by many generations of residents and visitors to Nottingham. For many years the bell was the deepest toned clock bell in the United Kingdom.Weighing over 10 tonnes, on a clear day its strike can be heard up to a distance of seven and a half miles.
Nottingham is famous for its local hero Robin Hood whose favourite Lieutenant was called Little John in reference to his large stature. It is with this connection that the bell was named ‘Little John’. It is hung in the great dome of the Council House in the Market Square in the centre of the city.
The building which is the home of ‘Little John’ is the Nottingham Council House. The Council House was commissioned to replace the former Nottingham Exchange. It was designed by Thomas Cecil Howitt in the Neo-Baroque style and built between 1927 and 1929. The foundation stone (behind the left-hand lion as you approach the building) was laid by Alderman Herbert Bowles (Chairman of the Estates Committee), on 17 March 1927. The total cost of the building at the time was £502,876. The building was officially opened by the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VIII and subsequently the Duke of Windsor) on 22 May 1929.
The hour bell has been named ‘Little John’ since the building opened. The bell was cast in 1928, by the world-famous bellfounders John Taylor & Co. of Loughborough. The clock weighs 10 and a half tons. Within this dome is also a clock which was made in 1926 by William Cope the nephew of the founders of G. & F. Cope. ( clockmakers of Nottingham). He managed to combine the movement of this clock to the striking of the bell from which it has chimed on time constantly and is considered one of the largest most accurate chiming clocks in the world.
David Lyon was the ‘custodian’ of the council house which involved manually winding up the clock mechanism once a week since 1985. Mr Lyon was responsible for keeping Nottingham on time with the unmistakable sound of Little John chiming on the hour for 32 years. Mr Lyon finally climbed the 77 steps into the clock tower for the last time on Friday 22 September 2017 at 8.30am. For the last time he wound up the mechanism which operates the clock and bells beneath the council house dome.
Upon the announcement of his retirement Mr Lyon, in an interview with the Nottingham Post back in 2017, said about the bell: “It is considered to be the best set of clock bells in the country. The main bell here is Little John. It is 10.5 tonnes and on a clear day you can hear it seven-and-a-half miles away down the Trent valley. It’s got a beautiful tone – far better than Big Ben because Big Ben was cracked when it was put in and has never been altered. It has rather a tinny sound unlike Little John which is mellow.”
A certificate marking Mr Lyon’s long service to the city of Nottingham was placed in the clock tower and a copy presented to him by the then lord mayor of Nottingham, Councillor Mike Edwards. Mr Edwards back in 2017 said: “Keeping the council house clock, and therefore Nottingham, running on time for 32 years is a huge responsibility and we’re very grateful to David for his dedication and expertise”.
Little John Bell, cast in 1928 by John Taylor & Co
Nottingham Hidden History Team 